Showing posts with label Steve Jenkins. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Steve Jenkins. Show all posts

Sunday, July 29, 2012

The Huntsman- the baby bear of cheese

Alan and I hovered over the cheese counter in El Rancho Marketplace for much too long yesterday, trying to choose a cheese might be interesting and also delicious. We wanted to buy one of each delicious little wedge in the counter, since we've been cheeseless for 2 weeks, but we finally walked out with only a handful of cheeses.  Yes, a handful. We downsized to a handful. I think we need some help with the decisionmaking process.

So which beautiful gems du fromage did we walk out with? A couple french ones that you'll just have to wait for (oooo suspense!) and a blended cheese called The Huntsman. Yep. I didn't make that up, it's really a cheese that has a hearty, masculine nickname... it cracked me up. And from that you'd think it would look dark and earthy, with chunks of something manly like pot roast in it or something. Well, no. Honestly, this cheese looks kind of awkward, and you know me, I think the awkward things are always the cutest, and those are the ones I bring home. Here's what it looks like:


The Huntsman is a blend of Double Gloucester and Blue Stilton, from Long Clawson Dairy in Leicestershire, England. Long Clawson was started in 1911 (that's a century of cheesemaking!) and is renowned for its Stilton. What a lucky find! They specialize in Stiltons, making many types and flavors of it as well as creating unique blends with other cheeses and fruits. Genius! Steve Jenkins actually mentions them in The Cheese Primer as one of the 4 (that's right, 4) excellent Stilton makers in the world. So if you see Clawson Stilton, pick some up. Here's their website: Long Clawson Dairy

Let's get back to The Huntsman. It has alternating stripes of the bright orange Double Gloucester and the white and blue from the Stilton, so it is a bright, colorful cheese. Clawson dairy takes the whole traditional wheel of Double Gloucester and slices it, alternates the slices with hand formed slices of it's famous Blue Stilton, and creates a new wheel of The Huntsman. They have also trademarked this cheese, so you know you're getting the real thing when you see it. Since this is the first time we've had either Double Gloucester or Blue Stilton, we decided to try them separately and then together to get the full effect.

First, the DG. Like I said, it's bright orange (probably dyed for the "cheddar" effect - see note below) and firm, just a bit softer than cheddar. Double Gloucester is traditionally a whole milk farmhouse cheese, made from milk from 2 different milkings (the evening of day 1 and the morning of day 2).  At first I thought it was a variety of cheddar, but it's not. It's its own cheese, but it is often compared to cheddar - probably because cheddar is nearly universally recognizable, and they have a lot of similarities. Honestly, I agree with Steve Jenkins that it is a little bland, like very mild cheddar. Not much attitude, not much to remember.  Alan and I noticed that it did have a tremendously bitter aftertaste, which totally overpowered its mild, mellow flavor.

Now for the Stilton. Stilton is England's only name-protected cheese, so you know it's authentic. It appears as a traditional blue cheese, with fuzzy specks of the roqueforti mold throughout. Its smell hit me like a truck - like rank dirty feet - and Alan went nuts for it. He described it as "strong and sweet- a mix of cherries and dirty socks." Yuck! I could barely get the stuff in my mouth, I was gagging so badly. The bite was so strong and sour, and it lingered in my mouth for much too long. I kept trying to identify this flavor that Alan was bonkers for, but all I tasted was ashes or charcoal. Very unpleasant. Imagine charcoal with vinegar and lemon juice. After a couple tries, I was done. It was way too strong for me.  Of course, it's supposed to taste delectable, like spicy, rich and creamy honey, tobacco and molasses. Believe me, that's not what I get from it.

So, individually, we were unimpressed. The Gloucester was too mild, one boring note, and the Stilton was overpowering. Even though Alan loved it, he couldn't keep eating it straight. However, those guys at Clawson know their stuff, because together, they were incredible. Perfectly balanced, creamy, salty and just the right amount of sharpness. Like baby bear, JUST right.  I could actually taste layers of flavor, including earthy, salty, a little sweetness and fruitiness like apple and citrus. Wow. The two cheeses balanced each other out so perfectly, I couldn't believe I was eating the same thing as before.  It could have been a meal in itself, with some bread and vegetables, because yes, it turned out to be very rich and hearty and filling as the name suggests, even though it comes across like a mamby pamby cheese at first.  I even saw a recipe to melt it over some steak, and man, that would be a worthy Huntsman meal.  I'm looking forward to find some more products from Clawson, because I think they have a knack for blending.

We got really lucky stumbling upon this one, but making cheese decisions is turning out to be pretty difficult.  Feel free to send us some suggestions of your favorite cheeses that we should seek out, and try some of these along with us. We'd love to hear what you think of them too!

-Ashleigh

*Coloring Agents: the cheddar effect:  Most companies add organic dyes to their cheese starters to create a uniformly healthy look to the end product. Cheese used to turn out this way naturally because of the Vitamin D the cows got from their grass and other grazing goodies in the summer, but cheese from winter milkings was noticeably whiter.  Nowadays, since most diary cows are fed feed from silos year round, most cheeses naturally come out white, even though they don't taste much different from their naturally orange summer counterparts. Since cheesemakers want the cheese to be uniform and recognizable for the consumer (you recognize that cheddar is traditionally supposed to be orange, so you look for that when you shop), they add harmless dyes in the beginning of the cheese process. It's very common, sometimes it just ends up looking a little too fluorescent to be real.  Just so you know.  (Source: The Cheese Primer p. 6)

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Mmmm... Mimolette!



We had some special guests at cheese tasting tonight! Please welcome Andrew and Kelli to the CCC for some yummy cheese-centered play-by-play.

So, after a day of a disappointing strawberry festival (who has a STRAWBERRY festival with ONE strawberry vendor? And nearly 100 other vendors? Arroyo Grande, CA, that's who. Schmucks.), we picked up some more cheese at Trader Joe's and sat around our dining room table trying out a group-style cheese tasting! Meet our friends Andrew and Kelli:  Andrew is camping out in our spare bedroom for a few months until he leaves to become a drill instructor for the Air Force, so he will probably frequent the Shteinberg-Botts Tasting Room until then. And Kelli is Alan's life raft at work, providing much needed comic relief when the world caves in on their office... which is nearly every day. Poor Alan.  

Now, Kelli and Andrew are just as new to cheese as we are, so we conned them into trying the new stuff we bought, as well as the Gruyere we tried the other day.  Our featured cheeses of the night: French Mimolette and Aged Gouda (we'll cover the Gouda in Part 2 of this post, because Alan's having a fit over here about putting 2 cheeses in the same entry... ahhh love).  We haven't made it very far into our book yet, so we still didn't know what we were buying when we bought it. But I convinced Alan to put down the really stinky moldy nasty ones he wanted to buy, and get some that looked a little bit safer. It's only a matter of time until that trick stops working...

Let's get down to the cheese! 

The Cheese: Isigny Sainte-Mere Mimolette (And, yes,  you must say it with a french accent at all times).  Hohn-hohn-hohn Baguette!!

We got lucky AGAIN. Isigny Sainte-Mere is one of the few brands of Mimolette that The Cheese Primer recommends in both France and the US! And it doesn't stop there- on the Isigny-Sainte-Mere website (posted below, and yes, the website is in French, so you might want to recruit someone who can speak the language... or at least muddle through it like I did) you can find the types of Mimolette they sell, organized by how long they have been aged. We managed to get our hands on their "Extra-Vieille" variety, which, directly translated means "Extra Old" (yum) and is guaranteed to be aged at least 18 months. In Cheeseland, older is usually better, so go us! We got the oldest cheese we could, on accident!

Mimolette is a hard bright orange cheese. It's nearly fluorescent! It has a waxy texture and it looks like orange-flavored hard candy.  That plays weird tricks on your brain, let me tell you. 

Mimolette is made in Normandy, in northern France. It is famous for being Charles De Gaulle's favorite cheese, but Steven Jenkins doesn't seem to love it very much. He says "Mimolette is one of the blandest cheeses you'll ever taste" - poor Mimolette!

I didn't think it was bland at all. It was very sharp and salty, and I definitely taste a sour milk flavor that (and I'm shocking myself even as I write this) wasn't entirely unenjoyable.  It's pretty much how I always wish my macaroni and cheese tasted, full of cheesy flavor! 

Alan said he could taste a tangy sourness like yogurt, and that it's sharp like Cheddar.  Kelli didn't like this one much, and Andrew thought everything tasted like Cheddar.  Now, Andrew is a wine connoisseur, and is really good at picking out the complex flavors in wine. Don't be fooled, all you wine tasters -  it looks like having a palette for wine doesn't prepare you for cheese!

The Verdict:
Alan: Mimolette is  a good substitute for Cheddar, if you feel like trying something different.
Ashleigh: I might grate some onto my macaroni and cheese...

Keep in mind, it's probably going to be a few bucks more than Cheddar. 

We also learned a valuable cheese lesson tonight. Don't eat cold cheese. It might sound weird, since it needs to be refrigerated. But, it is advised, and we now know from personal experience, to let your cheese come to room temperature before sinking your teeth into it. When cheese is cold, it has very little flavor, but coming to room temperature allows it to "wake up" in a sense... We revisited the Gruyere with Kelli and Andrew, and we tasted it as soon as we took it out of the refrigerator. I actually liked it then... I didn't taste any of the nail polish remover taste, and I thought maybe I was already seeing my palette develop. But, after 20 minutes, I tried it again, and yup, it was all acetone. YUCK. So, the moral of the story is don't munch on the cheese as soon as you take it out. Show some restraint, and wait for the flavor to come back. Also, your palette won't mature overnight. It's apparently going to take time for that... maybe I can stretch out putting off the stinky bleu cheeses for a while longer after all ;-)


Click Here to check out Isigny Sainte-Mere Mimolette


We would love you to try some of these cheeses with us and post what you think of them! And feel free to send us any requests and or suggestions!

Stay tuned for Part 2 of tonight's tasting, featuring Aged Gouda!


-Ashleigh


Friday, May 25, 2012

Grand Cru Gruyere

Gruyere!!! Our first cheese! 

Traditionally, this is a Swiss cow's milk cheese popular in fondue recipes. The texture resembles white American cheese: it's smooth, no cracks or holes, and the cheese is soft but not oozy. 

According to Steve Jenkins and "The Cheese Primer," "Gruyere is one of the truly great cheeses of the world." We'll be honest, we picked this cheese at random, at our local grocery store because it sounded fancy. Furthermore, there apparently is a whole lotta crappy Gruyere cheese circulating about. It's a cheap version of the real deal, similar to processed American cheese. We lucked out in that we happened to pick one of the better brands of American-made Gruyere. Enough talking, let's eat some cheese!

The Cheese: Roth Kase brand Grand Cru Gruyere

We both agreed that this cheese is pretty mild. It's not salty or sharp. It has a strong initial smell of raw unprocessed peanut butter for some reason, and it tastes "nutty" too. Ashleigh insists she tastes bitter walnuts. *Note: she dislikes nuts too. After a few seconds the cheese begins to soften on the tongue and the nuttiness gives way to something else, but we can't figure out what the hell it is exactly. According to Ashleigh, this aftertaste is reminiscent of nail polish remover. Yum!!

Let's consult Mr. Jenkins. He says the Gruyere should "have assertive flavor with hints of fruits and nuts." Maybe the nail polish remover taste is a clue to our primitive palettes....sheesh.

The Verdict

Ashleigh: "It was good! We'll have to try it in fondue."
Alan: "Why does it smell like peanut butter in here??"

Here's a link to the website for this cheese:

- Alan.